Returning to Our Roots: The Ultimate Summer Holiday on the Greek Islands
This Summer dive into a Greek Island Adventure exploring History, Luxury, and Style. Take a Risk and Choose your Fantasies…
Ryan exploring the historic town of Lefkés on Paros, Greece in relaxed, island style.
Choosing A Summer of Adventure.
There are certain places on earth that invite us to unwind, marvel in natural beauty, and create the life we’ve always dreamt of. The Greek islands have always been one of those places for me. I must have been twenty-two when I first saw the movie Summer Lovers, an early 1980s romance that most likely wouldn’t ever have gotten made today. A progressive film for its time, a young American couple spends a summer on the islands together basking in romance and unexpectedly working a third into their relationship. Surely a taboo topic for much of our Puritan leaning culture, but also a conduit for exploring freedom, self expression, and choosing adventure.
As we approach the warmer seasonal months and start dreaming of travels that take us to far off worlds, I invite you to let the warm Aegean breezes carry you to the Grecian Cyclades for all those adventures we expect, but perhaps even more soul-fulfilling, for those we don’t.
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus amphitheater at the Acropolis.
Athens : A Celebration of Humanity.
Perhaps because we’re always so excited to get to the Greek islands, Athens all too often gets left by the wayside for simply nothing more than a layover before a connecting flight. But this season, plan a night or two and explore. I promise you, you won’t be disappointed. The city is alive with charm, rich in character, bursting with history and boosting modern masterpieces.
Arriving into Athens, check into the centrally located, ultra-luxurious Hotel Grande Bretagne Athens. Open and in service since 1974, this multi-awarded 5 star hotel whisks its guests back to an old-world refinement while offering modern amenities. Butler service in one of the fifty-eight suites, or a more causal, but still elevated stay in one of the other 320 rooms, the choice is yours. Located across the square from Parliament, Hotel Grande Bretagne Athens is as regal is it comes. Sunset cocktails followed by a candlelight dinner is an absolute must at the GB Roof Garden Restaurant for the most incredible views of the Acropolis in the city, the perfect entry to begin our one of a kind Greece experience.
We’re active people right? There’s little better than waking up just as the sun rises, meeting a local friend and heading out a run. Maybe you don’t run, maybe wake up and get in an early morning walk as the city begins to come alive instead. With ruins from ancient Greece scattered among modern apartment towers, public parks and government buildings, every block is filled with moments of wonder.
Head toward the original Olympic Stadium built in 330 BC for a sight you’ll never forget. Excavated and first restored in 1869, this is the only stadium in the world constructed entirely from marble. Not long after, the stadium hosted the first modern Olympics as we know them today in 1896. As an ultra-distance runner, sweating while climbing the stairs inside this temple to great athletes on a quiet, Summer, weekday morning; the moment I stopped to take it in, chills shook my body.
Wrap up your morning venture out with a quick stop by Me Kolonaki for a refreshing Greek Frappé. Instant coffee, water, sugar and if you desire, a hint of evaporated milk; together these ingredients form the perfect chilled beverage. One part coffee, one part dessert. If you haven’t treated yourself to a frappé with that customary thick foam layer on top, you’re missing out. My stop at Me Kolonaki might be my first frappé of this Greece adventure, but as one of the Greeks signature beverages, and one of my favorites, it’s only the first of many to come.
The Seeds of Modern, Western Civilization.
Frappé in hand -and perhaps a pastry too- head to the city’s main attraction, the birthplace of Western civilization, the Acropolis of Athens. Even with many of the locals away on holiday, Summer is high season at the site. Grab your tickets ahead of time to beat the crowds and the heat. It gets hot. Very hot. Sweltering at times. But climbing up the side of the hill to reach the Parathion is well worth the sun’s rays. Bring along that frappé or water and a hat.
Literally meaning “highest point,” standing atop the Acropolis, I gasp in awe, not just at the 380 degree views of the city laying below, but at the enduring accomplishments demonstrated at this site which we still value today. Here, ideas and achievements were put into motion, setting the stage for the times we live today; perhaps ideas that we’ve struggled at times to practice, but nevertheless we’ve found a way to continue them forward. Politics and Democracy. Math and Science. A celebration of Arts & Culture. The great remains at the Acropolis, the Parthenon, Temple of Athena Nike, and the Theatre of Dionysus among others, force me to consider and give gratitude for the shoulders of giants which our feet now stand.
Sunset cocktails at the GB Roof Garden Restaurant.
Summer afternoon clouds over the Parthenon.
A portion of the Old Temple of Athena.
The entrance to the Arrephorion at the Acropolis.
Whether its the first weather station used to tell the wind and time or the Nazi occupation raising their symbol of oppression over the Acropolis of Athens, with just a bit of discovery, this hill holds a long and storied past ready to be heard. How did the Classic Greeks construct a magnificent wonder like this so many years ago? How did this octagonal tower function overnight and still give an accurate account of the wind and time? What was it like for two University boys to risk their lives, scale this hill in the cover of darkness and remove the Nazi flag in 1941 therefore unofficially beginning the Greek resistance to occupation? This UNESCO World Heritage Site proclaims over 3,000 years of history and remarkable stories if we just show up for a visit.
The old is housed in the ultra new on the South slope of this same hill; a visit to Acropolis Museum is a must stop after you’ve walked the historic site. Dedicated in 2009, this modern glass and concrete structure is a feat of engineering on its own. Standing above ruins from Roman and early Byzantine times, the Acropolis Museum masterfully weaves its subjects into compelling narratives. Each of the museum’s three exhibition levels are structured so that as a guest walks through space, the story of time, its events and ideas are displayed via corresponding antiquities. Rarely does a museum excel as the Acropolis Museum excels in fully immersing its guests. And rarely does a museum so efficiently, and defiantly, succeed in its mission; to unite all remaining pieces of the Acropolis taken by foreign institutions under one roof.
There are many highlights within these walls, but the top level Parthenon Gallery is the museum’s crown jewel. Here 48 columns rise in exact space and distance to those less than 300 meters away. The room is angled and orientated the same with large glass walls allowing the natural sunlight to bath the Parthenon frieze sections as they’re displayed just as they were atop the hill. The frieze is shown in its entirety, with replica pieces cast in a white plaster dispersed between the soft yellow fade of the originals, making the case that all originals should be returned here, to the country of their origin. Foreign institutions had argued Greece had no suitable location to house artifacts they now possess, but the Acropolis Museum and its Parthenon gallery, with emotion and reason, lay out an impactful argument that cannot be ignored.
Entrance to the Acropolis Museum with excavation below.
Acanthus leaf set with plaster reconstructions, one of the two akroteria from the Parthenon.
After a full day of history, unwind with a workout or spa treatment at Holme’s Place Athens, the luxury health & wellness facility of Athens. Or perhaps skip right to a bite. Pit Espresso Ristorante invites diners to relax in a garden, sidewalk cafe setting; impeccably designed this indoor / outdoor restaurant is one of the city’s best keep, local secrets. A bountiful Greek salad, fresh and savory pizzas, espressos and cocktails, Pit Espresso combines the best of upscale dining with the ease of a more casual dining experience. It’s the type of place where one gets so comfortable, hours go by, and suddenly you realize it’s 2am and you’re ready for bed…
Paros: A Cycladic Island Paradise.
The Greek Isles are a bit like ice cream flavors. There’s a wide variety with something for everyone; some are sweet, others are more savory, but all are enticing, each demand for a taste. In the spirit of trying to lick them all - ok, now we’re carrying the metaphor too far!- make a point to island hop on your Greek adventure. A short flight from Athens takes us to Paros, a paradise in the heart of the Cyclades.
Sea breezes in Naoussa’s harbor on the island of Paros.
Arriving at Paros Cape Suites we’re greeted by Katrine, the kindest of hosts. She shows us to our fresh and airy, room on the sea. Warm and inviting, this boutique hotel is a new, modern build in classic, Greek whitewash with crisp lines that shadow play with the sun. It’s exactly what I was looking for when planning our stay on the island. Not a large complex, but a quiet, unstated property with all the amenities we’ve come to expect from a luxury hotel. A bountiful breakfast buffet, dinner reservations, and end of the night treats left in our room, Katrine and her staff go out of their way to make sure we felt at home even offering their WhatsApp number to use day or night for any potential need. This is attention to detail and hands-on service.
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Dive into true adventure and do something you’ve never done before on this holiday. For me, that’s enjoying Laggeri, a clothing optional beach just a couple kilometers bike ride from our hotel. A bit hidden, and a slight off-road walk, the beach is pristine and unpretentious. Once we find that perfect place, a more remote place in the sand with some shrubs for shade, swim trunks come off, sunscreen goes on and it’s pure enjoyment, a sense of freedom and liberation in nature.
Looking more for cabanas and cocktails? Or maybe you’re looking to be active? Jump on a quad and head to the South East side of the island. Here Golden Beach shimmers in the late afternoon sun, its name coming from the abundant, fine glass elements in the sand. Known for its water sport activities, try wind or kite-surfing, scuba, or grab a snorkel and scout your favorite underwater friend. Paros and its diverse beaches have whatever you’re after. A Dj and beats on the beach, head to Pounda. Glassy water with a touch of romance, don’t miss Monastiri Beach in the hour just before sun sets. Or maybe you’re looking to stay close to town, Kolymbithres sits just near Naousa.
It’s your Summer holiday, so for obvious reasons we flock to the beaches, but Paros’ former capital during the middle ages, Lefkes, takes advantage of its inner island, natural protection. A stroll through Lefkes is an absolute must. With less than 500 citizens, its whitewashed walls, narrow, pedestrian-only streets, low stone archways and traditional blue shutters are relics frozen in a charming, simpler, by-gone era. Sitting on a hill among a forest of olive and pine trees, Paros rises over 350 meters, making it difficult for invading pirates to access, while also providing epic, panoramic views across the sea to Naxos. Enjoy the view while sipping an ouzo. Bask in the island’s afternoon breezes outside Church of Agia Triada. And take a hike on Paros’ oldest road, the Byzantine Road connecting this former agriculture center to the fishing harbor of Piso Livadi below.
Lefkes’ Church of Agia Triada.
Back in Nassaou, one of Paros’ two main city centers, evening falls revealing a chic harbor village sparking under the moonlight. Once an under-the-radar secret, Nassaou now boasts sophisticated restaurants, plenty of nightlife options, and designer clothing stores. This is a bustling Cyclades town with options for whatever your mood. My advice, enjoy the international culinary options one night and then opt for dinner at the local, more traditional Taverna Karina the next. Katerin -no, not our host at Cape Suites Paros, but the owner, host and waitress at Taverna Karina- embraces us with the warmest hospitality, making our night here our favorite on the island. Must be something about the name…
Mikonos! The Ultimate Summer Lover.
What’s a Summer holiday without a bit of indulgence? This season bathe in a festive opulence decades in the making. A quick ferry from Paros brings us to Mykonos, perhaps the most famous of the Greek islands. Ever-evolving Mykonos now hosts some of the most exclusive travelers of the world, but this wasn’t always the case.
Named after its first ruler, the grandson of Apollo, Mykonos is not only known as the island of the Winds, but of large rock formations. Here an epic battle raged when Hercules lured the god’s fierce enemies, the great Giants to the island. According to myth, the large rock formations of Mykonos are actually the corpses of the defeated Giants. While anthropologists first began to explore this unique history in the late 1890s, Mykonos didn’t become a travel destination until the 1930s when European celebrities, politicians and power-brokers in the shipping industry began spending their summer holidays here. After again being all but abandoned during the second World War, the 1950s brought a resurgence of elite travelers to once again discover Mykonos’ distinct character, a character rooted in the past but one that continues to change and evolve to the desires of today.
This intersection of past and present is none more apparent than at one of my favorite hotels, the Saint John Hotel Mykonos. One of the island’s most exclusive hotels, the Saint John Hotel Mykonos offers discerning guests an unparalleled seaside luxury experience. Nestled along the coast of Agios loannis, the hotel is a masterpiece in hospitality, service, elegance and Greek comfort. Book any one of the accommodations, a traditional garden view room, a stunning sea view Honeymoon Suite, or one of the multiple bedroom villas and be prepared for a holiday stay even your most active imagination couldn’t dream.
Just minutes outside Chora, or Mykonos Town, the Saint John Hotel Mykonos is a 5 star, sanctuary oasis quietly boasting all any luxury traveler might ever need; a variety of restaurants and cocktail bars, an infinity pool with its famed bridge appearing to connect the pool and the sea, and a private beach with a dock ready and waiting for your boat to take you and your guests across the bay and into the sunset. My recommendation, start the day with the breakfast buffet at Kalimera high above the crystal clear, blue waters of the sea. Get in a sweat while exercising in the wellness center, treat yourself to a relaxation massage at Aphrodite Spa and then spend the afternoon lounging with a fruity cocktail on the private beach as the waves crash ashore just a stones throw from your feet.
From Pool to Sea, the bridge at Saint John Hotel Mykonos at sunset.
Stay at the Saint John Mykonos to watch the incredible glow of the sun fall behind Delos in the distance and then head into Chora for an evening spent exploring the magic of the town. This is a town that doesn’t truly come alive till well after dark. Get lost among the maze-like, stone streets intentionally designed to fend off invading pirates and discover a local artist’s gallery, a homemade pasta restaurant serving Italian food since the 1960s, or a bar hidden in what seems like a cave in the center of town. Mykonos Town is filled with these local gems while balancing a more recent opening of international brand name businesses. Sure take a look at Louis Vuitton, but shop at the one-of-a-kind jewelry designer’s store for something special.
Mykonos’ famed windmills call us to return each season for new adventures.
In town, or across the island for that matter, you cannot help but bump into Greece’s storied history. Enjoy a cocktail along the shore in Little Venice with Mykonos’ icon windmills standing call just across the bay. There on the hill seven of the island’s 16 windmills have been catching incoming winds since the Venetians first constructed them to mill wheat in the 16th century.
Stroll to the other end of Chora to marvel at the Church of Panagia Paraportiani, a structure actually housing five distinct churches of which construction started in 1425 but didn’t see completion until the 17th century. The church’s whitewash and curved design is prime example of Cycladic architecture. “Our Lady of the Side Gate,” as the name translates, is not only a national Greek landmark, but one of the most photographed churches in the world.
Or head just a few minutes out of Chora to discover Mykonos’ rich maritime past, the Armenistis Lighthouse. While the lighthouse is not a wonder in its height, its impressive octagonal tower is still in operation, now under the guidance of the Hellenic Navy. Built in 1891 after Volta, a British ship, capsized killing eleven crew members, the Armenistis Lighthouse offers spectacular views across the sea toward neighboring Tinos. My advice: climb the lighthouse at golden hour, just before sunset. It’s a lesser-known treasure that will leave you speechless.
Mykonos’ maze of streets and colorful walkways.
White on white at Church of Panagia Paraportiani.
The Armenistis Lighthouse at sunset.
The charming old harbor of Mykonos.
Whether it’s history, culture or restaurants and beaches, Mykonos is most definitely a Choose Your Own Adventure holiday. With each passing season the island continues to be further developed, but its original charm, its heart, is never far from the surface. Visit Super Paradise for an afternoon on the sand and in the water choosing the activity of your choice; jet-skiing, banana boat riding or flyboarding, it’s all a great time! Then walk up the hill to JackieO’ for a late lunch and drag show, a celebration of the island’s inclusive history. Spend the day on the quieter, but other-worldly, Agios Sostis Beach; then visit Kikis Tavern, perhaps the island’s most famous eatery. No sign. No electricity. No reservations. Kikis has seen it all, and changed very little, from the island’s boho days to today’s celebrity visits. Or visit Scorpios Mykonos to lounge in a chic beachside cabana, indulge in an extravagant dinner under a Bedouin canopy, and dance deep into the evening with Djs serving seaside party beats. From menu to design and aesthetic, Scorpios is a modern celebration of classic, world craftsmanship and artistry.
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Alive with the Luxury of Adventure.
This Summer choose the holiday of your deepest desires- you’ve more than earned it. The Cycladic Islands of Greece beckon us once again to return to a fanciful playground scattered across the glimmering Aegean Sea. Here you’ll discover magic, freedom, the opportunity to be whoever you choose to be for a day, for a night, or for a week. It was Summer Lovers, the film, that led me to the islands so many years ago tempted by a life of never-ending adventure. Lina, the third joining the American couple during their holiday says it best: adventure- “It’s just like exercising. It can hurt at first but then it becomes pleasure. If you want to feel alive, you must take risks.” It’s these islands that continually remind me, and invite us, to take the risks we’ve always imagined but never acted on, to choose the joy, the experiences, we’ve always wanted… It’s all here waiting for you.
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